COSTUME RESEARCH LIBRARY UPDATES & ADDITIONS

"A Central Location to Study Costume and Fashion since 1996"

2007 Yearly Listings of Library Updates

2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007

Below is a listing of the additions for 2007 to The Costume Gallery's Research Library. You may view the listing at no charge but our Library articles and image enlargements may be viewed only by subscription members. To obtain an individual library subscription or click HERE. For group subscriptions please contact: GROUP RATES.

  DECEMBER 2007 ADDITIONS

 December 15: The National Wholesale Dry Goods Association: Pocket Book: List of Firms. There are 1001 fashion or textile businesses are listed from the pocket book, representing 26 states in the U.S.; in total 28 webpages are presented. A jobber was a wholesale salesman. He would use this book for contacts. The master list are the manual pages are first presented in the same order as listed in the book. If one wishes to view by state or city the master listing is divided into states. Please read the directions for viewing this area prior to visiting the webpages.

Directions for viewing the NWDRA Handbook:

  1. The Handbook is in Excel or spreadsheet format and viewed best in Internet Explorer.
  2. The TABS across the bottom of the screen can be clicked upon to see their contents. The first two tabs, the Master List, p. 3-19 and p. 20-35, are listed exactly like they appear in the book. I divided the master list by states to make it easier for the reader to find businesses by their location. Twenty-six states are represented and have their own spreadsheets.
  3. The lower left corner of the spreadsheet, has four small arrows. If you click on the right side arrows, the spreadsheet will move to the tabs on the right. The large center arrows will move the spreadsheet one tab at a time. The outer arrows will move to the beginning or end of the spreadsheet.
  4. The state pages are listed alphabetically by cities/towns. The cities/town names are in capital letters. Please note that New York City and Philadelphia have very long listings. There are cities listed before and after these two large cities.
  5. You may notice that some businesses have the same address. This is especially true for New York City. Some of these businesses may have shared an office or building. Please keep in mind that some businesses may have an agent or buyer with an office in a major city and the factory located in another city or state.
  6. A qualification to be listed in this pocket book was that a business must have generated of at least $1,000,000 annually.
  7. On the far left of each spreadsheet is a column titled "CODE." This is a code for the jobber used to know the type of business it was. For example, if a business only sold to wholesalers. All the code pages have not been made. Presently A-E code pages are active links.

  NOVEMBER 2007 ADDITIONS

 November 2: A Year in Fashion: 1865. Article including fashion illustrations from a January 1865 issue of Peterson's Magazine. This article shows women, two girls, and a boy's latest fashions. Subscribers may click on the image below to view the article.

Click to view the article.

  SEPTEMBER 2007 ADDITIONS

 September 27: New addition of two antique pattern catalogs of men and women's costumes published in the years 1897 and 1900. The catalogs show a variety of costumes from history, masquerade, carnivals, operas, plays, fancy dress/costumed parties, and fantasy. Below are some examples of costumes in the catalogs:

Click to view Hermione enlargement and description Click to view Japanese Kimono enlargement and descriptionClick to view enlargement and descriptionClick to view Bluebeard Men's Costume enlargement and descriptionClick to view North American Indian Men's Costume enlargement and description

 September 10: A Year in Fashion: 1858. Alphabet embroidery patterns from a January 1858 issue of Godey' Lady's Book and Magazine. The letters F, G, & H are available. These letter patterns are really cute with people making up each letter. I have made the patterns in two sizes for subscribers to download. Pattern sizes medium (size 5" height @ 72 dpi) and large (size 10" height @ 72 dpi). To date, A - H are online.

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 September 6: Textile Reference Manual: Nine definitions from an 1894 Cole's Dry Goods Dictionary: oil skin, oiled silk, paper linge, pina-cloth / pine-cloth / pineapple-cloth, reel (silk), shroud, spick-span-new, valentia, and vegetable flannel.

 September 5: Textile Reference Manual: Thirteen additional definitions and two charts from an 1894 Cole's Dry Goods Dictionary:

  • Charts: Fabric Widths Listed by Manufacturers: Domestic Gingham and Ticking.
  • Definitions: gros-grain / grosgrain / silk mohair, Guipure / clung Guipure / vellum lace, gingham, hatching (embroidery / weaving), hatching, helix (sewing needles), hosier (hosiery trades / business), housewife's cloth, huckabuck, line (buttons), madras gingham, needle-loom (manufacturing), seersucker / seersucker gingham, and zephur gingham.
  •  September 2: Textile Reference Manual: Thirteen definitions from an 1894 Cole's Dry Goods Dictionary: clock (embellishment), cloth, cloth measure, cloth of gold, cold tar colors (dye), coburg, cobweb lawn, cochineal (dye), cockle (finish), cocoa fibre, composition cloth, convert cloth, and cony fur.

      AUGUST 2007 ADDITIONS

     August 31: A Year in Fashion: 1858. Alphabet embroidery patterns from a January 1858 issue of Godey' Lady's Book and Magazine. The letters A, B, C, D, & E are available. These letter patterns are really cute with people making up each letter. I have made the patterns in two sizes for subscribers to download. Pattern sizes medium (size 5" height @ 72 dpi) and large (size 10" height @ 72 dpi).

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     August 25: Textile Reference Manual: Thirty-one additional definitions from an 1894 Cole's Dry Goods Dictionary: Clan tartans (plaid), claith, Clay worsted, gallon (lace), gamboon, gassing/singeing (manufacturing process), gassing frame (manufacturing equipment), gauze / empress gauze, genappe (yarn), Germantown yarn, German knitting worsted, gimp / guipure, gimped embroidery, glace (finish), glass cloth, glassing, gloria, gobelin dress fabric, gossamer, grass-bleaching, grass-cloth, grass embroidery, grass linen, grassing, grenadine, grille (lace), grosgram, gros, gros des Indus, gros de Naples, and gros de Tours.

     August 28: Textile Reference Manual: Seven additional definitions and two charts from an 1894 Cole's Dry Goods Dictionary:

  • Charts: Fabric Widths Listed by Manufacturers: Cotton Drills and Cheviot.
  • Definitions: Diced (weave), Dundee goods, filament (thread), fulling mill (manufacturing machine), full regular (hosiery / knitwear), fugitive colors, and fuller's earth (cleaning / detergent).
  •  August 25: Textile Reference Manual: Thirty additional definitions from an 1894 Cole's Dry Goods Dictionary: caddis (serge), calender (manufacturing), calfskin, calico, cambrasine, cambric, cameline, camel's hair, camlet, Canton flannel, canvas, cappadine, carding (manufacturing), Cashmere, cassimere, cassinette / Kerseynette, castor, catgut, challi, chambray, check (print), cheese -cloth / cotton bunting, chenille (embroidery), chenille cloth, cheviot (wool), cheviot shirting (cotton), Chiffon, chijimi, chinchilla, and chine.

     August 23: Textile Reference Manual: Seventeen additional definitions from an 1894 Cole's Dry Goods Dictionary: Aniline dye, bride (needlework / lace term), broad lace, brocaded, brocatel, broche, buckskin (leather), buff (leather), buffing (leather process), bullion-fringe / embroidery, bunting, burl (manufacturing process), burlap, butcher's linen, butter-cloth, China silk, and Chintz.

     August 16: Textile Reference Manual: Thirteen additions of the following definitions from an 1894 dry goods dictionary: Adulteration of fabrics, bloom (dye), bocasine, bocking, bolt (measurement), bolting cloth, bombast, bombyx, bombycinous, bookbinder's cloth, bookfold (measurement), bookmuslin, and boucla.

     August 13: Textile Reference Manual: Eleven additions of the following definitions from an 1894 dry goods dictionary: Bed tick / ticking (fabric), Bedford cord (weave), beetling / mangling machine (manufacturing), Beige / debeige / beige de laine (fabric), Bengal stripes (print), Bengaline / Tyrolienne (fabric), Berlin / German wool (used in needlework), bias (fabric cut), birdseye linen / weave, Blonde lace, and block printing.

     August 10: Textile Reference Manual: Addition of the following fabrics / textiles from an 1894 dry goods dictionary: balbriggan, balloon-net and bone laces, baize / bay cloth, bombazine, braids, broadcloth, brocade, and buckram.

     August 3: I am giving a makeover to our Textile Reference Manual. Over the years so many of our subscribers have asked for the Library's Daily Newsletter's fashion definitions to be placed online. Since so many of these defintions are textiles, I am putting these definitions online in this area of the Library. You can watch as I give the Textiles area the makeover. These definitions are from an 1894 edition of Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and the Library's textile manufacturing stereoview photographs. Today, 28 webpages were added to the Textiles area. There is free access to view the Table of Content for the Textile Reference Manual. Subscribers may click on a topic and a pop-up box asks for your password. This is the subscription area.

      JULY 2007 ADDITIONS

     July 30: A Year in Fashion: 1876. Three fashion plates illustrating eight children's fashions from a February 1876 Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. Subscribers may click on the images below to view enlargement and a description.

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     July 26: A Year in Fashion: 1876. Two fashion plates consisting of four ladies' and one girl's dresses from a February 1876 Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. Subscribers may click on the images below to view enlargement and a description.

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     July 20: A Year in Fashion: 1876. An article about Bridal Dress from a February 1876 issue of Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. Subscribers may click on the image below to view enlargement and a description.

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     July 15: A Year in Fashion: 1876. An article about Fashion Trends from a February 1876 issue of Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. This article discusses womenswear, childrenswear, and jewelry.

     July 10: A Year in Fashion: 1858. An article about New York City and Philadelphia Fashion Trends from a January 1858 issue of Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. The beginning of this article discusses the retailers reaction to The Panic of 1857. The article continues to describe the latest ladies' dress fashion trends.

      JUNE 2007 ADDITIONS

     June 29: I have added 60 more definitions to the Costume Encyclopedia from the 1894 edition of Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods. The Encyclopedia now contains over 830 and 400 images of fashion defintions, costume descriptions, etc.

      MAY 2007 ADDITIONS

     May 17: Maternity gown that was shown in a September 1896 issue of Delineator magazine. A full description follows the two images. The second image shows the front and back views. This view also shows how the bodice and skirt can be expanded for the pregnancy.

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     May 12: Seven stereoview images dating in the 1910s decade of textile and fashion manufacturing mills. Images represented below:

  • Telemarken, Norway: Lady Weaving Woolen Blankets on a Primitive Hand Loom
  • Lawrence, Massachusetts: Doubling Frame in a Large Woolen Mill
  • South Manchester, Connecticut: Roving Frame-Silk industry (Spun Silk)
  • Lawrence, Massachusetts: Large Printing Room of Cotton Mills
  • Greenville, Texas: Cotton Gin
  • Lawrence, Massachusetts: Spinning Cotton Yarn in the Great Textile Mills
  • Leicester, England: Knitting Machines at Work in the Wolsey Woolen Factory
  • Akron, Ohio: Manufacture of Rubber Boots and Shoes

  • Telemarken, Norway: Lady Weaving Woolen Blankets on a Primitive Hand Loom. Subscribers click on image for enlargement Lawrence, Massachusetts: Doubling Frame in a Large Woolen Mill. Subscribers click on image for enlargement South Manchester, Connecticut: Roving Frame-Silk industry. Subscribers click on image for enlargement Lawrence, Massachusetts: Large Printing Room of Cotton Mills. Subscribers click on image for enlargement

    Lawrence, Massachusetts: Spinning Cotton Yarn in the Great Textile Mills. Subscribers click on image for enlargement Leicester, England: Knitting Machines at Work in the Wolsey Woolen Factory. Subscribers click on image for enlargement Akron, Ohio: Manufacture of Rubber Boots and Shoes. Subscribers click on image for enlargement

      APRIL 2007 ADDITIONS

     April 18: Late-1950s photograph of a lady's bouffant evening gown. Subscribers may click on the image below to view an enlargement of the photo.

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     April 12: Twelve photographs of late 1940s weddings. I purchased this family wedding album at an antique show. There are three weddings represented in this collection. Subscribers may click on the images below to view the photographs.

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      MARCH 2007 ADDITIONS

     March 22: Three new fashion plates for A Year in Fashion: 1896. The first two images show four ladies ensembles. Another image shows six ladies' hats.

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     March 19: A Year in Fashion: 1896 has received a makeover. Seven new fashion plates from 1896 issues of Delineator magazine. One image is of four ladies' hats.

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     March 16: Two 1896 fashion designer catalogs are in the Library. There are 38 dresses representing 14 fashion designers that were available for 1896. Fashion designers represented: Jules Bister, Emilia Bossi, Debenham & Freebody, Drecoll, M. Felix, De Gaspari: Rosa e Torta, George Henry Lee & Company, Hirsch & Cie, A. Izambard, Alfred Manning, Maison E Minangoy, Simpson, Hunter & Young, Ullmann & Strauss, and M.A. Vogels.

     March 13: Makeover for A Year in Fashion: 1897. Update with a nice pretty background and thumbnail images of the fashion illustrations for specific months. Another addition is fancy-dressed costumes from a German magazine. Subscribers may click on the image below to see this illustration.

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     March 12: An index for the Ladies high-fashion dresses from the "Illustrations of Model Gowns Catalog," Spring 1916 issue, for the Harry Angelo Company located in New York City and Paris, France. The business was contracted to take orders for the designers. 42 dresses represent 14 fashion designers that were available for this season during World War I. Each illustration shows front and back views of the dress. Fashion designers represented: Agnes, Beer, Bernard, Bulloz, Georges Doeuillet, Drecoll, Dumay, Georgette, Jenny, Klein, Martial & Armand, Monge, Paquin, and Premet.

     March 11: An index for the Laborers section of the 1814 book Picturesque Representations of The Dress and Manners of the English. Ten occupations with images are shown in this section: Farmer’s Boy, Waterman to a Coach-stand, Female Shrimper, Dustman, Hastings Fisherman, Billinsgate Fish-woman, Milk-maid, Drover, Match Girl, and Chimney-Sweeper on the First Day of May.

     March 8: Article from a 1918 Delineator magazine entitled "Women’s Part in the War Industry During World War 1." This is an interesting article written a few months before the war ended.

     March 5: FREE ACCESS AREA: I have added 100 new entries into the Costume Encyclopedia. This gives a total of over 770 entires with 407 with images. Several of today's entries are fashion defintions from an 1894 edition of Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods.

     March 2: FREE ACCESS AREA: I am putting online the "Carnival in Venice" images from the John and Mable Ringling's Cą d'Zan mansion in Sarasota, Florida. John Ringling was one of the brothers who owned the Barnum and Bailey Ringling Bros. Circus. The mansion was completed in 1926 and entertained many popular guests. The "Carnival in Venice" mural is located on the Cą d'Zan's gameroom ceiling. This room took the majority of the 32-room mansion's third floor. The Ringling's entertained there frequently. The ceiling mural artist, William Andrew "Willy" Pogany, was a very popular artist for children's book illustrator (Gulliver's Travel, Troy, etc.), and a set and costume designer for the Zeigfeld Follies on Broadway. This series' mural images are massive in size and close-up views are available on our website's Library. The murals were painted by Willy Pogany in New York City then brought to the Cą d'Zan and installed on the gameroom ceiling. The first image on the left is a self portrait of the artist. Today's addition includes 15 webpages.

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     March 1: FREE ACCESS AREA: The "Carnival in Venice" images from the John and Mable Ringling's Cą d'Zan mansion in Sarasota, Florida. This "Carnival in Venice" mural is located on the Cą d'Zan's gameroom ceiling. Today's addition includes 4 webpages.

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      FEBRUARY 2007 ADDITIONS

     February 19: FREE ACCESS AREA: The "Carnival in Venice" images from the John and Mable Ringling's Cą d'Zan mansion in Sarasota, Florida. Today's addition includes 13 webpages.

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     February 12: New addition from Virginia Commonwealth University Dept. of Fashion Design & Merchandising online photo collection. This addition is a spring coil bustle pad from 1870-1889. This type of pad was part of a woman's undergarments to add fullness to the skirt or dress bustle area. Below are back and side views.

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     February 8: New addition to our Virginia Commonwealth University Dept. of Fashion Design & Merchandising online photo collection. This addition is a mesh wire bustle pad from 1870-1889. This type of pad was part of a woman's undergarments to add fullness to the skirt or dress bustle area. A diagram with the pad's measurements is included.

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      JANUARY 2007 ADDITIONS

     January 22: A new webpage to our series, A Year in Fashion: 1914. The section covers fashions from the Ragtime and World War 1 era. You may view the table of contents in the section at no charge.

     January 21: Designers webpages updated to our Fashion Designers of Their Time series. Three new images added for the fashion designers Jeanne Lanvin, John Redfern, and House of Worth. These images are from 1914 issues of the French magazine, Gazette du Bon Ton Ton. Library subscribers may click on the images below to view the enlargements and dress descriptions.

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     January 19: Designers webpages updated to our Fashion Designers of Their Time series. Two new images added for the fashion designer Georges Doeuillet. These images are from 1914 issues of the French magazine, Gazette du Bon Ton Ton. Library subscribers may click on the images below to view the enlargements and dress descriptions.

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     January 6: Four color fashion images for our series, Fashion Designers of Their Time series. The designer represented is Madeline Cheruit. These images are from 1914 issues of the French magazine, Gazette du Bon Ton Ton. Library subscribers may click on the images below to view the enlargements and dress descriptions.

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     January 5: Four color fashion images for our series, Fashion Designers of Their Time series. The designers represented are Madeline Cheruit, Jacque Doucet, and Paquin. These images are from 1913 issues of the French magazine, Gazette du Bon Ton Ton. Library subscribers may click on the images below to view the enlargements and dress descriptions.

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     January 3: Two tables from an 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods about fabric widths of cotton cheviots and cotton drills. These tables contain U. S. fabric manufacturers and their products listed: width in inches, yards to pounds, and counts to inch.

    Yearly Listings of Library Updates

    2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007

    Disclaimer: Our websites are being presented as a fashion educational resource. The Costume Gallery, or its owner, Penny E. Dunlap Ladnier, does NOT sell or make sewing patterns. The majority of our website's publications' text is in its original format. Spelling or grammar may not appear to be correct, but were standard for the original publication date. Images may NOT be downloaded to your computer, but you do have permission to print one copy of the webpages. Images, text, webpage layout, HTML coding, and database content are copyrighted by The Costume Gallery's Websites and protected under U.S. copyright laws. Questions??? email click HERE.

    © The Costume Gallery, 1996-2007.
    © Costume Research Library, 1996-2007.
    © Costume Classroom, 2001-2007.
    © A Year in Fashion 2000-2007.
    © Fashion Designers of Their Time, 2004-2007.
    © Costume Encyclopedia, 2004-2007.
    © Fashion Color Database, 1996-2007.
    © Fashion Foto-date, 2000-2007.

    All contents of the websites associated with The Costume Gallery Website are protected by copyright laws.

    © The Costume Gallery, 1996-2006.
    © Costume Research Library, 1996-2006.
    © Costume Encyclopedia, 2004-2006.
    © Fashion Color Database, 1996-2006.