All methods of construction are accurate to produce a period garment. Some methods used are not typical for the time period but were used in the original garment. Please note, you need to add 1 1/2" to the top of the skirt pieces A, B, C, D, & F. This area will be turned toward the inside to make the waist facing. Also, you need to add to the scaled pattern seam allowances (5/8") and 2" for the hem.
Sew all darts and staystitch curved edges.
Attach the longseams on pieces B to the long seams on each side of piece A (creating seams AB).
Attach the long seamlines on pieces C to the long seams on each side of pieces B (creating seams BC).
Sew piece F (wider end) to the narrow end of piece E, creating seam EF.
Attach facing G (start at the seamline EF) to the straight edge of piece F. Turn facing (G) under and press (see illustration #3). Handstitch in place.
Fold right sides together on the flap, piece H. Sew the slanted edge and the opposite end together. Turn right side out, press and baste the raw edge together.
With raw edges together, stitch piece H to the narrow end of piece D. ***Look at illustration #3 for placement directions. Make sure piece H is placed 1 1/4" down from the top of piece D. This will makes allowance for the turning of the waistband.
Clean finish the raw edges of the waist.
Create the long center back seam (DE) by joining pieces D to E. Start joining from seam EF down.
Tack seam EF to the bottom of seam DH.
Turn the waistline over under one inch. The tops of the darts need to be ripped open 3/4" to allow for easement in the waistline (see illustration #4). Press and hand stitch the facing to the skirt.
Cartridge pleat the entire top of piece C. Once pleated piece C will be app. 3" wide. This is what creates the fan illusion for the train.
Waistband- One my use one of two methods for the waistband.
Original method: 1/2" wide lined ribbon
My method: 1" wide bias tape and fold it in half. This method provides more strength.
Hand sew the open edge of the waistband to the waist. Start at the location of the seam DH. When attaching the waistband to the cartridge pleats, tack the outside edge of the pleats only. The inside edge of the pleats hang free on the inside of the garment see illustration #5). When nearing the end of the attachment of the waistband allow a 1" over hang (see illustration #6). Whipstitch the overhang edges. Attach two sets of hook and eyes to the overhang.
Attach three sets of hook and eyes to pieces F & H for closure.