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The Ladies' Home Journal

September 1893

The New Colors and Materials

Author: Emma M. Hooper

Section III: Novelties in Dress Goods

The basket serge and cord weaves will be first in the fancy of fashionable women. Rough and changeable effects will be good, and sleazy weaves that are heavy in appearance, though light in weight. The Loie Fuller, or striking changeables named after the lights and shades thrown by electricity, and the agile American dancer now in Paris, will undoubtedly have a good run here, though the most exclusive modistes in Paris have already given them up. However, there are more conservative changeables than these, which are sure of popularity here. These are shown in cord or repped goods with contrasting hair lines dividing every cord or cluster of them. Again the ground is shot and the cords plain, or the surface is dotted with tiny spots of a contrasting color or shade. Other goods only show a glimmer of a second color when in movement. Silk and wool dress goods show lines and dots on the plain warp of silk, which gives the material a sheen and lightness of weight that only appears with the admixture of silk. Plain and fancy black goods will be remarkably good this season. Novelties and extreme effects will be high-priced early in the season, but medium-priced materials are opened from October first. The hop-sackings, also called Panama canvas and basket checks, are back again in plain, two toned and changeable effects. Some very heavy goods are aptly named after the north pole. All apparently heavy goods are soft and light in feeling. Plain and diagonal serges are figured, shaded, cross-barred, striped, dotted and shot. All cords are good that are round, whether they call them reps, bengaline, crystal, poplin, whipcord, epingline, etc. Crepon effects are good in novelties, but not in cheap goods, and pointelle--tiny dots--and small broche' figures in contrasting colors on silk or wool have met with the buyer's approval. Mixed suitings in rough effects are already being ordered by modistes, who claim that the very fashionable dressers will patronize them well. Bordered goods are in demand in Paris, having returned with the 1830 skirts that are so often trimmed with bands. A new cork-screw weave is called drap de Paris. Genuine basket cloth of a firmer weave than hop-sacking, ranks with the stylish dress materials, and sail-cloth is another version of the weave. Ladies' cloth appears in over two hundred shades, and of a medium weight for dresses and capes. Storm serge for hard wear will not be ousted in spite of newer fabrics, and now comes in dark green, brown and lead gray, as well as navy and black. Plaids are shown freely in Paris, but were also last spring, when they would not obtain here. Armure grounds are rifle in fancies, but in plain goods the serge, reps or hop-sacking weaves reign. In dress goods the craze will undoubtedly be for greens and browns, followed by reddish purples and greenish blues, with old rose, light green and the bright reds for vests, to tone up the deeper colors. Black has taken a decided upward bound of late for second-best gowns.

Click on this article's sections to view:

 Article Intro

 Names for the New Colors

 Combining the Shades

 Novelties in Dress Goods

 Novelties in Silk Fabrics

 Velvets and Velveteens

 Use of Combinations

 The First Fall Gown


Bibliographical Information:

Hooper, Emma M. "The New Colors and Materials", The Ladies' Home Journal, Vol. X, No. 10, September 1893, p. 18.

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