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The Ladies' Home Journal

June 1895

"Mourning and Its Usage"

Author: Isabel A. Mallon

Section II: A Widow's Mourning

A widow who wishes to be properly gowned chooses the material known as Eudora cloth, which is really the finest brand of Henrietta, and as it can be gotten in different weights, is adapted to all seasons. Of course, the jet black is chosen. For what is called "blue black" when trimmed with crape looks almost like navy blue. A suitable toilette to be worn during the summer shows a skirt of Eudora cloth made after the received flaring style, and having set in at each side of the front width two side plaits of crape that extend from the waist to the edge of the skirt. The bodice is a round draped one with a high collar of crape and a plait of crape coming just down the centre of the front in loop fashion, its end being concealed under a crape belt. The sleeves are of the cloth and shape in to the arms, and have for a finish three narrow folds of crape, while on the outer edge of each are set six small crape buttons. The bonnet is a modified Marie Stuart, made of crape, with dull black strings rather broad and a white widow's cap showing from under the edge. The veil is of the best English crape, which is really the only kind worth buying, and for the first three months, it is worn over the face and reaches almost to the edge of the skirt in front and within two inches of it at the back. At the end of the three months the front portion is thrown back and carefully draped so that the two portions fall over in the back in a very artistic manner. Over the face there is then a round net veil bordered with crape, and this round veil with the crape veil thrown back are proper for the next nine months. When traveling one is permitted to lay aside one's veil and simply wear the ordinary black silk one, such as is liked by all women. Perfectly plain crepon is chosen for indoor wear, and makes very beautiful house gowns, as it falls gracefully and is particularly obliging in lending itself to most artistic curves.

 Click on this article's sections to view:

 Article Introduction

 Some of the Materials

 Some of the Usages

 Mourning for Men

 A Widow's Mourning

 A Few Last Words

 A Daughter's Mourning


Bibliographical Information:

Mallon, Isabel A. "Mourning and Its Usage", The Ladies' Home Journal, Vol. XII, No. 5, June 1895, p. 19.

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