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Vintage Publications

The Ladies' Home Journal

June 1895

"Mourning and Its Usage"

Author: Isabel A. Mallon

Section IV: Some of the Materials

Personal experience has proved that cheap crape is the most expensive thing in the world. The best English crape is economical, as it can be re-dressed and made to look like new. There is now on the market an English crape that is waterproof. Of course, water will go through it, but the ordinary rain drops can be shaken off, and if it is put in a cool room after this there is no sign whatever that water has splashed upon it. This ought to be a welcome piece of intelligence to women who wear crape, as they know once wet a veil gets to look "slinky" seems to have a special attraction for the dust and becomes shabby and pitiful looking.

For complimentary mournings the beautiful crepons are specially liked, and, indeed, the perfectly plain ones are suited to all grades of mourning. The crepons are in all wool, in silk and wool and in all silk. Of these grades the silk and wool mixture is the most effective and will certainly prove most desirable for general wear. The embroidered crepons, specially liked for house gowns, show tiny dots and flashes of silk on a dull ground, and will, without doubt, find wearers, not only among those who are in mourning, but among those women who like beautiful black gowns. Black mohair is fancied for a summer gown in complimentary mourning, and for this there is also shown a sateen which has a dead black ground and a fine satin hair line traversing it. Trimmed with black satin and with huge black satin sleeves, a costume of this is displayed by a well-known modiste for a three-months' mourning for a distant cousin.

Cravenette, which is a bit heavy for summer wear, is liked, however, for long wraps, and as it casts aside both the dust and the damp, its usefulness as a wrap for general wear can be easily understood. Until crape is laid aside the use of ribbon, even the dull black, is not counted good form. Dull silk, heavy corded, combined with a very rich crape, is appropriately worn by an elderly lady who has resolved, as many elderly matrons do, to wear mourning for the rest of her life. Black-bordered handkerchiefs are considered bad form, the ordinary linen lawn with a narrow hemstitched border being counted as proper. Fancy veils, no matter how becoming, are not worn with a crape bonnet, and are only proper when all black, without regard to materials, is chosen. Black undressed kid gloves are to be given the preference. That abomination known as "mourning jewelry" is no longer seen, even a brooch not being required, inasmuch as the collar fastens under a rosette or a loop of crape.

Click on this article's sections to view:

 Article Introduction

 Some of the Materials

 Some of the Usages

 Mourning for Men

 A Widow's Mourning

 A Few Last Words

 A Daughter's Mourning


Bibliographical Information:

Mallon, Isabel A. "Mourning and Its Usage", The Ladies' Home Journal, Vol. XII, No. 5, June 1895, p. 19.

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