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The Ladies' Home Journal

June 1895

"Mourning and Its Usage"

Author: Isabel A. Mallon

Section III: A Daughter's Mourning

The mourning assumed by a daughter for a parent is much lighter than that worn by a widow, but for the first six months, and if it is wished, for a year, crape forms part of the costume. The veil, which should be of the heaviest crape, is only worn over the face once, and after that it is quite proper to throw it back. It is unlike a widow's veil, inasmuch as it does not extend over the front and back of the gown, but it should be at least two yards and a half long, as a hem not less than a quarter of a yard deep is required on the lower edge.

Tamise, which is not unlike alpaca, is worn by very young girls upon whom crape is not put, but for a grown-up girl Henrietta or Eudora is usually selected. A costume made by a leading dressmaker for a girl of twenty showed a flaring skirt of Henrietta cloth and a round bodice with a plaited bib front of crape. The puffed sleeves shape into crape cuffs, and the belt is of crape with its fastening hidden under a crape rosette at the back. The small bonnet is made after the Dutch shape, with flaring bows of crape at each side, and the veil is pinned on the crown and is not to be removed or thrown over the face. With this bonnet were sent two veils: one of crape to be worn three months and one of fine silk net trimmed with a border of crape three inches wide, to be worn the second three months.

Crepe hats are at once ugly and in bad taste. The demureness of the bonnet is a necessity to mourning, unless it is to be worn by a young girl, and then either a felt or straw hat, according to the season, is proper, and this should have for its trimming very simple bows of lustreless ribbon. All crepe parasols with dull ebony handles are used by widows, but a black silk parasol with a broad border of crape is suitable for all mourning.

If a fan is found a necessity it should be of dull black silk or moire with no decoration upon it and plain black wood sticks. There are shown in Japanese store fans of heavy black paper, almost like parchment it is so heavy, and these fans are to be commended in good taste for general wear by one in mourning. Silk gloves, except for very young girls, are not counted good form. Russet shoes, even on young children in black, would be in exceedingly bad taste, and yet I regret to say that I saw them worn by a woman who was not only in mourning but wearing the most costly fabrics.

Click on this article's sections to view:

 Article Introduction

 Some of the Materials

 Some of the Usages

 Mourning for Men

 A Widow's Mourning

 A Few Last Words

 A Daughter's Mourning

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Bibliographical Information:

Mallon, Isabel A. "Mourning and Its Usage", The Ladies' Home Journal, Vol. XII, No. 5, June 1895, p. 19.

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